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Webb31 mars 2024 · A general method is described for determining the mass transport throughout the fluid in the presence of an oscillating body, or with an oscillating stress at the boundary. In part III, the general method of solution described in parts I and II is applied to the cases of a progressive and a standing wave in water of uniform depth. WebbIn the present paper an attempt is made to elucidate the paradox. Waves of small amplitude η 0 and large horizontal wave-length λ (compared with the depth h of the water) are studied, and it is shown that Airy's conclusion is valid if η 0 λ 2 / h 3 ia large, whereas the solitary wave has η 0 λ 2 / h 3 of order unity. fling-website-down.dtmeetnn.com
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